Entering a restaurant, I usually practice a timeless proven method: that "ol' gut feeling." Vibes I truly trust.

I do a careful look around while settling in at the table. Oh my, sometimes this tells me even more than I want to know! My last scientific observation is with my nose, an extremely useful tool that allows me to detect mouthwatering aromas and more.

So it was as I entered Aiyara (a Thai word that translates to elephant) Cafe. I knew immediately that my lunch in the hands of Kannika Hime, the proprietor (from the city of Bangkok) was to be very special.

I was ready to have our order taken as she walked toward our table. However, this lovely woman was so cordial that I made a split-second decision and asked, "Would you mind suggesting our lunch menu today?" This tactic is a useful tool that always offers unpredictable surprises.

Aiyara's menu items offer items marked with one or two stars. Those who like their dishes hot get the stars, and those who prefer their food to be flavorful but not piquant get none.

	Kannika Hime adds noodles to her Pad Thai with Prawns. Hime owns the Aiyara Thai Cafe, 1010 Harlow Road, Springfield. Photo: Wayne Eastburn / The Register-Guard

I don't believe there are more than 20 seats in this modest café. Almost out of sight was a humble altar with many cherished keepsakes speaking of the richness of the Thai culture. A photograph above the altar is of the fifth Thai crown prince; a quite handsome royal gentleman she proudly indicates as the basis for the character in "The King and I."

Hime suggested we start with one of the specials of the day, Tod Mun Pla (Thai fish cakes, $6.95). Four fried cakes looking like golden, round pancakes were made of shrimp and snapper and were subtly flavored with fish sauce (the all-important Thai ingredient) and lemongrass.

The fish cakes were accompanied by a simple but delicious dipping sauce, which she indicated as typically Thai. It contained chopped peanuts, cilantro and a sliced fresh Serrano chili, a ball of fire that set off sparks upon my tongue each time I slipped a delicious morsel of fish cake between my waiting lips.

Hime tells us she did not know how to cook before she came to this country and was constantly calling her mother for help. Thai Salad ($5.75) is a good example of one of those easy, homestyle recipes. It can be a starter for lunch or dinner, or even eaten alone.

Flavorful, chili-sauce-marinated sliced chicken is tossed with crunchy Napa cabbage, carrots and chopped peanuts and two herbs: mint and cilantro. It grabbed my fork like a magnet. I literally could not stop myself. Nibble, nibble throughout the meal until the bowl was empty. So amazingly good!

The special of the day was one that shouldn't be missed if it happens to be on the board. Honey Roast Duck Yellow Curry ($9.95) was served with white rice. Sensational! The aroma was "drop dead" overwhelming. Once I started spooning the fragrant sauce over the curry ingredients and rice, I couldn't wait to share it with my tablemates.

The combination of its succulent pieces of roasted sliced duck, juicy pieces of sweet pineapple and slices of red and green bell peppers combined not only taste, but also color. The flavor of lemongrass, yellow curry and the ever-present use of coconut milk joined all the ingredients together into an irresistible, scrumptious one-dish meal.

Chicken with Chili Mint Sauce (Ka Prao Goi, $8.95) and white rice was served family style. The dish melded minced chicken with bell peppers; bamboo shoots; thin, spunky slices of chilies and mint - all exaggerated the importance of freshness and flavor. Its typical exciting aroma was characteristic of Thai cooking. Delicious to taste and stimulating to smell, I enjoyed each invigorating mouthful.

One cannot have a Thai meal without noodles. Stir-fried Pad Woon Sen ($6.95) was a combination of chicken, egg, vegetables and glass noodles - a satisfying, subtle noodle mix.

It seemed to grow on me as I put one bite after another into my mouth. Its flavors inten- sified as it cooled. I kept saying, "Just a bit more, a bit more," until there was no more!

One of my favorite Thai desserts is cold, velvety coconut custard on a bed of warm, sweet sticky rice ($3). There is always a comforting, sensual pleasure when these two faultless foods - one smooth as silk, one sweet and textured - are eaten together.

Even at the end of the meal I would not have hesitated to order a second portion. With each scoopful there was a quiet but gratifying "mmm, mmm, mmm!"

We had a pleasant lunch in an unassuming cafe. It pays to follow your instincts in more ways than one!

Our deepest appreciation to Kannika Hime. The lunch was delightful, showcasing her straightforward style.

Nonie Fish is a free-lance food writer from Eugene. Her twice-monthly Dining Out reviews are based on one, and sometimes two, unannounced, anonymous visits to local restaurants.

RESTAURANT REVIEW

Aiyara Thai Cafe

Address: 1010 Harlow Road, Springfield, 736-8306

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Friday, noon to 9 p.m. Saturday

Reservations: A very small cafe

Credit cards: VISA and MasterCard

Noise level: Moderate

Cost: $27.20 for two persons - a big splurge lunch